![]() You will then start from the photo with the exposure at zero. Using the brush, you will reveal details in light and dark areas. The second solution is to use software capable of creating layers and blend masks. ![]() The purpose of HDR software is to show details in all areas of your photo whether it is in dark or light tones. The software will work automatically for you. The first solution is to use a software called HDR (High Dynamic Range) to stitch your photos. The process of creating the low key photo will take place on the computer. Thus, you will get a picture with the dynamic valley ranging from -5 stops to +5 stops. ![]() You start this state again by varying the speed from plus +1 stop to plus +5 stops.You repeat the process until you reach -5 stops. This value means that the exposure is correct for the camera's light metering. The cursor of the bar graph must be on zero. You take a first picture with a balanced exposure for the camera.The change of exposure will be done with the shutter speed. To make this bracketing, I recommend that you use a tripod so that you don't move. That is to say that you will photograph a scene by changing exposure by one stop for each shot. The only way you can get a picture that conforms to the 10 zones is to bracket your scene. Ultimately, your low key will not be perfect. You will have to make choices for your exposure. Even if the dynamic range of today’s sensors can reach 14 stops, you will still have trouble getting interesting details in the dark and light areas. Everything would be perfect in the best of worlds. This way you would have details in both the dark and light areas. Ideally a scene that is photographed should have a dynamic of 10 zones. The principle of the zones is quite simple to understand. I consider that the best way to get high quality low key landscape photos is to use Ansel Adams' 10 zones. So, you will have a dynamic of 10 stops between the lightest and the darkest zone. Between each of them, there is a difference of one light stop. The system therefore consists of 10 zones. It is usually said to be the underexposed zone. Zone I (1) is the tone most images fall into. The chart includes 10 zones (10 tones) ranging from 1 to 10, each zone is noted in Roman numerals. His goal was to obtain the maximum detail in each tone of the photo. I want to remind you that the zone system was invented by the American photographer Ansel Adams. To carry out this evaluation, I advise you to use the zone system. The greater the difference between the two tones, the greater the contrast will be and the more visual impact your scene will have. When you are going to make a low key landscape photo, you need to know how to evaluate the brightness in dark and light tones. It was from that day on that I decided to create low key landscape photos. I was touched emotionally in a way that I had never experienced before when looking at a landscape photo. It was like an electric shock when I first gazed upon it. The photo that really triggered my passion for low key landscape photography is the Snake River in Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming. I very quickly realized that this system was applicable almost exclusively in black and white. I began to study the 10-zone system he had developed. I was very inspired by Ansel Adams' books, not only by the quality of his black and white photos but also by the techniques he used to make them. I started buying many books from American photographers who had chosen this theme for their photographic creations. I used the HSL technique frequently to modify and embellish my color photos.Ī few years ago, I decided to start a large photo project dedicated to the landscapes of the southwestern United States. I began with wildlife photography.įor an exceedingly long time, I used color for all of my landscape photos. ![]() Landscape photography was not for me the first photographic theme I chose for low key photography. ![]()
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